Cambodia

Cambodia is a country in Southeast Asia that is home to some fabulous temples such as Angkor Wat, as well as a fairly dark modern political history.

Visas

If you are flying into Siem Reap or Phnom Penh, you should be able to get it easily at the international airports upon arrival for $US20 (30 day tourist visa). Not sure if there are ATMS between getting off the plane and the immigration desk so arrive with the USD on you. You need to have a passport-sized photo with you.

Money

You should be able to pay for things in most places with Baht or USD.

When I visited, there were no ATMs in the whole country and the only way to withdraw funds was to go to 1-2 banks in PP and get a cash advance on your credit card. I suspect that things are a little easier now, but make sure you find out before you go. Also, your Japanese card is quite possibly useless there, so plan for that. I carried all the cash I thought I would need for the 2-3 weeks I was there and that was fine. You can pay for many things in either USD and Cambodian Real. USD are perhaps better for bigger transactions e.g. overpriced hotel rooms and booking tickets etc., and Real for smaller things like buying a drink etc. You may find that if you hand over a note that is too big (e.g. a $10 note) when purchasing something like a drink/snack at the markets, that the vendor won't have change for you - so it's easier to pay for these things in Real. You may find that teh vendor runs down the street with your money to change it - and don't get stressed out about it. I THINK you will need to pay for your visa and entrance to Angkor temples in USD. TCs are unnecessary.

Medical Tips

I'm not a doctor, so obviously you should consult a doctor for specific questions.

• Bring loads of sunscreen - if you're on motorbikes all day or on the roof of a speedboat, you will need it!
• You probably should think about getting malaria medication.
  • I have only ever used doxycycline (aka tetracycline) - it's cheap and a low grade general anti-biotic. It CAN make you photosensitive though, so you may need to be particularly rigorous in sunscreen application. seriously! I like doxy because a) it's cheap b) you take it once a day so it's easier to remember! and c) aside from the tendency to get more sunburnt, I experienced no side-effects. Of course everyone will react differently! You need to start taking a few days before you depart and continue for a month after which is a bit of a pain.
  • I think the main other medication is Malarone - I have no experience with it so no comments. I dunno. I think you only need to take it once a week too, which may be preferable for you.
  • I don't know if people still use Larium, but it had a bad rap from many travellers I met, so unless you can't take doxy or Malarone, perhaps it's not the best one to use.
  • You could also think about bringing a citronella coil if you are prone to bites.
• Irrespective of which anti-malarial you take, you need to be aware of the risk of dengue fever, which I believe is carried by a mosquito that hangs out mostly in the day time. So insect repellant is a good idea.
• Maybe think about getting hepatitis (A and B) and typhoid vaccinations too.
• The water is unsuitable for drinking.
• There are rabid dogs, particularly around Kampot. They are pretty manky anyways so I wouldn’t suggest you befriend them!

Borders

You do not need to change money at the borders – particularly if you have Thai Baht or USD.

Thailand

You can buy the visa on arrival at the Thai borders.

• Hat Lek/Ko Khong Border

  Eastern border with Southern Cambodia. You need to get to Trat first, and then jump on a mini-bus that will take you to the border at Hat Lek (about one hour). This is not a bad border to cross though they will undoubtedly insist that you pay more than the official $US20 visa fee (even though $US20 is clearly printed on the visa itself). You can officially pay in either USD or Thai Baht though the officials will likely insist that you pay in baht and probably inflate the price by 100-300 baht (nationality dependent, it seems). Avoid paying the fee at all costs (though it can be bloody tough - I was trying to get the speed boat from Ko Khong to Sihanoukville and pushed for time and for about 15 mins played a game with them where I put the $20 down on the table and they told me to pay more grrrr) and if you do pay it, demand a receipt and advise them that you are going to send the receipt to immigration with a complaint. It might not work, but who knows?!

  Buses from Trat run to Hat Lek every hour from about 5am and take about an hour.

  From the Cambodian side, you can fairly easily pick up a mini-bus to Sihanoukville/PP. not sure of current prices. When I took a bus it took about 6 hours to Sihanoukville along a red pock-marked dirt road. The ride was pretty hairy but it was an amazing trip! I believe the road is hugely improved since I visited. There is also a daily boat from Ko Khong to Sihanoukville. It leaves at 8am daily and takes about 5 hours. Costs $US25. I believe the ride can be pretty rough, so if you have a weak stomach, perhaps you’re better on the bus.

• Poipet/Aranyaprathet Border

  Poipet can be a pretty nasty place to arrive/depart. It’s pretty seedy and grotty and has a far worse reputation than Hat Lek/Ko Khong’s border. There are several mini-buses that depart daily from Khao San Road in Bangkok if you want to travel overland without having to think about it but there are scams involved, which you may wish to avoid. Exiting here is pretty straightforward but entering has a terrible reputation.

  It's easy enough to bus between BKK and Aranyaprathet yourself. I took a local bus and it was cheap and fast. Between Aranyaprathet Bus station and border, you can either take a tuk-tuk (80Baht) or a motorbike taxi (60Baht). Once you cross the border, you should be able to get a share taxi to Siem Reap for around $USD50 (i.e. for the whole taxi - fitting in as many people as possible), or jump on a bus to SR for $US10 - buses leave when full.

  Don't believe anyone who tells you that you must change your money at the border. If you have USD or Thai Baht you will be fine. If you do change money, make sure you thoroughly count what they give you.

  Also don't accept any random's help to get your visa processed more easily.

Vietnam

You need a visa before you get to the Cambodia/Vietnam border.

There are 3 border crossings.

• Moc Bai (Vietnam) to Bavet (Cambodia) for buses between HCMC and Phnom Penh.
• Vinh Xuong (Vietnam) to Kaam Samnor (Cambodia) Take a fast ferry boat from Chau Doc in the Mekong Delta to Phnom Penh.
• Tinh Bien (Vietnam) to Phnom Den (Cambodia) – not great transport options but it’s open for foreigners.

Laos

This border isn’t always open. You need your Laos visa in advance. The border with Laos north of Stung Treng is perhaps a good option if you are travelling on to Si Phan Don (4000 islands in Southern Laos). I think the ease of the transfer is dependent on if its monsoon/dry season though suspect the roads are substantially better than when I visited.

Transportation

I used a lot of share taxis and motos (motorbikes) to get around. Motos are great for getting around town - whilst perhaps not the safest way of travelling (yeah, if you fall off, you are probably rooted), they are quick, convenient and fun! You need to agree on a price before you get on and you should really check what the standard rates are for short hops/day rates. In Phnom Penh/Siem Reap in 2003, you could hire a moto driver to take you anywhere for about $USD8. I suspect the price is more like $12 now, but not sure. You MAY be able to hire a moto for yourself - at least around Angkor temples, which is probably fine if you are sticking to the temples centred very close to Angkor Wat/Angkor Thom, but if you are going out to Banteay Srei/Rolous temples, you probably should take a driver as you don't wanna get lost in woop woop! You can also hire bicycles to get around the Angkor Temples, but it will probably be ridiculously hot, so unless you are masochistic and a tight-arse, I wouldn't recommend it! You can also get tuk-tuks to get around. I think motos are always preferable as they are cheap, fun and you have a lot of freedom to negotiate with the driver when and where you will go. Usually your guesthouse will be able to organise a driver for you. I used share taxis to travel parts of Cambodia e.g. from Sihanoukville-Kampot, Kampot-Phnom Penh, Battambang-Poipet. Basically they are regular taxis and you pay for a seat and share the cost of the taxi with whoever else is going to whereve you are going. Hotels and guesthouses can usually help you organise this, or else you might be able to go to the bus station and arrange this on the spot - though you'll have to wait for it to fill up or pay the cost for the other seats. It's quite common to have 8 people in one regular sized taxi. 2 in driver's seat, 2 in front passenger seat, and 4 in the back seat!! Squashy!! But Khmer people are pretty small, so it's doable. If you like you can also pay for the front passenger seat (I think I paid $4 to get from Battambang-Poipet) or share the backseat with another person (I paid $4 for the 3 hour trip between Kampot and Phnom Penh). I only took one bus, from the border at Hat Lek to Sihanoukville - there was a mini-bus waiting for border crossers there and it was super-cheap, but long!

There is a speedboat that runs up the Tonle Sap from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap. It's about a 5 hour trip and really interesting as you get to see all the floating villages on the way up, and boats are, in my opinion, the most comfortable and relaxing way to travel anywhere!! Actually inside the boat is kinda stuffy, so you can sit on the roof of the boat - but make sure you lather yourself with sunscreen and/or preferably also have a sarong to wrap over your shoulders/legs etc...you will absolutely fry!!

The duration of the journey between PP and SR may vary according to the season - the flow of the Tonle Sap bizarrely reverses depending on the season, so maybe check that out.

Depending on the water levels, you can also get a boat between Siem Reap and Battambang - the boat was tiny and I swear my arse has never been so numb, but it was fun. The roads might be slightly improved now so a bus/share taxi might be a better option.

Places

Sihanoukville

Beach town on the south coast. The beaches are pretty rubbish here, to be honest and the town itself is a little seedy, but if you aren't visiting any other beach areas in SE Asia, and want to chill out on the beach for a few days, this is the place to go. There are plenty of cheap guesthouses around, and I suspect you will have no problems rocking up to places and finding a bed for the night - unless you have a special place in mind I guess. There isn't a huge amount to do in Sihanoukville, but again, if you want a few days on the beach, this is probably the place to go in Cambodia.

Kampot

A super mellow town east of Sihanoukville. The scenery here is lovely - you are just under the Bokor Mountains and the village is so relaxed that it seems to be permanently horizontal. The main reason to come here, other than escaping the heady freneticism of Sihanoukville or Phnom Penh is to relax or visit Bokor Hill station. You should be able to organise a trip up to Bokor through whatever guesthouse you stay at in Kampot. Also some nice hiking/walking spots nearby. The riverside here is really pretty and a nice place to hang in the evenings. You will no doubt be befriended by random locals who want to practise their English. People were super friendly here. You can take a 40 min moto trip out to Kep-sur-Mer. Kep was a former getaway for the colonial high-rollers and there used to be loads of casinos here and cool buildings. A lot of it was largely destroyed when I visited but it's a super relaxing spot to spend an afternoon. There are some interesting buildings to look at, the waterfront is really nice for strolling, and you can sit in a bamboo hut that overlooks the sea and feast on seafood or tropical fruits etc...

The moto ride from Kampot to Kep was beautiful. The road is pretty good too. You should be able to get a round trip super cheaply from Kampot - including waiting time.

Phnom Penh

Crazy city!! I quite liked the vibe here though - some charming old buildings, interesting temples, the most cosmopolitan city in “Indochina” (I think anyway). The markets are really cool too- esp. the Russian market and hanging out on the riverfront at dusk is a nice way to let the afternoon disappear over icy drinks. The National Museum was pretty interesting - and informative as a prelude to visiting Angkor temples in Siem Reap. Tuol Sleng Genocide museum is, unsurprisingly pretty sobering. It was a former prision, set in a former school in central PP. And perhaps you can combine this with a trip to the Killing Fields at Cheong Ek (?), which is just outside town. Wat Phnom is a really nice Wat too. And defo check out Silver Pagoda - which isn't really silver!! Pretty much all of this you'll find in a guide book. I stayed at a dive of a hostel called "Top Banana". If you meet a moto driver called Yaya - don't go anywhere with him...my friend and I ended up in a Cambodian beer hall in the boondocks of PP and it was a little sketchy...

Siem Reap

Like I said above, you can either boat or bus from PP - the boat is awesome. It drops you maybe 30mins out of Siem Reap - though I think the actual drop off point depends on the water levels. From here you should be able to pick up a moto into town for 50c-$1 (quite possibly more now - see if you can check with another traveller in PP).

Also, I can almost guarantee you that whichever driver you get will try to tout you the business of whichever guesthouse he is receiving commission from. So it's good to have a place in mind and make that very clear to the driver. Alternately, you could pre-contact the guesthouse in Siem Reap and get them to get someone to pick you up - it's unncessary, but at least helps reduce the hassle. But then of course you don't get to check out the place before you arrive. Some of the lads I travelled with in Laos told me that they pre-booked with an affiliated hostel in PP and were picked up by driver's wielding signs saying "Daffy Duck", "Mickey Mouse" and "Bugs Bunny". funny :)

Siem Reap is where you go for the majority of Angkor era temples (there are also some minor ones in Thailand, Laos and Vietnam as the empire was pretty awesome). You can get 1/3/7 day (consecutive) passes for $US20/40/60 respectively. You need a passport-sized photo for your pass, and you might have to bring your passport along when you buy the ticket (can*t remember). If you visit temples outside the SR province, e.g. Phnom Kulen, you need to pay for an additional ticket (another $20). I felt the 3 day pass was ideal - time for a sunrise/sunsets at a few different spots, time to explore the main temples and a bit of time to head out to more distant temples like Banteay Srei/Roulous.

Angkor Wat is obviously the most famous, and arguably the most interesting, though other awesome temples include Angkor Thom (a few temples in this complex, Ta Prohm (with the roots of trees weaving through it), the Bayon (more than 200 faces looking at you from different angles) and Banteay Srei are also amazing. Banteay Srei is really worth the effort to get to. It's kinda far, and an hour each way on the back of a motorbike in the hot sun is kinda hard-going, but it's totally worth it. It's beautiful, unique and well-preserved. It's made of pink sandstone and the bas-reliefs are perhaps the most interest of all the temples (IMO). The Rolous group is also out of town, but unless you have a particular interest in that group of temples, I don't think it's worth the effort. The nice thing is that it's really seldom visited and you can have the place to yourself....unless a kid pops out of nowhere and wields a knife and demands money...(he didn't get any!).

I never made it to Phnom Kulen, but it's the most sacred place in Cambodia and I suspect it's well worth the trip - additional fee of $20 to visit, and it's kinda far, but if you have time, check it out.

If you want to get a nice view of sunset over Angkor Wat, Phnom Bakheng is the place where EVERYONE (literally) goes. It's a bit manic up there - not exactly a place to tacitly contemplate the grandeur of Angkor and its once-great empire - but it's a pretty amazing view. You can also get a lovely view from high up in Angkor Wat itself - it's a bit quieter. You can use your 3 day pass on the late afternoon of the day before you activate the pass. Hence, if you buy the pass on a Sunday afternoon, you can go into the Archaeological park after about 5, see sunset, and then continuing using the pass for M-W.

There is a land-mine museum/school in SR which is really interesting. It was founded by a guy who was a former child soldier with the Khmer Rouge and his story and the stories of many others affected by the atrocities of the Khmer Rouge are told there. It's really worth a visit. There is also a school there for orphans of landmine victims and landmine survivors. If you like, they are always looking for volunteers here, so if you fancy a bit of work, this is an option.

You can get super cheap massage in Siem Reap - a good lunchtime activity as it'll be scorching!! Be cautious of which establishment you access services at - unless that's your thing...

The Children's hospital in Siem Reap used to hold frequent concerts in the evening with all funds going to help provide medical treatment for the local kids. The Swiss dude who started the concerts is a really good cellist, and it's a nice way to spend an evening. I presume it's still running?

Battambang

A decent enough stop if you are heading back to Bangkok. It's the second most populous town in Cambodia but it's like some teeny tiny Japanese village in reality!! Not a lot in Battambang itself, but the countryside here is absolutely beautiful - some pretty villages and temples around the outskirts. Maybe worth it to get a moto driver for the day to drive you to check out as much as possible. Nothing specific to see. I just like cruising around the countryside on motos!! It is really, really lovely here.

Elsewhere

A friend of mine did some travel up into Ratanikiri and Mondulkiri- she said it was rough on the body but thoroughly awesome!! Kratie is perhaps also worth a look. There is also a village famous for eating spiders - Skuon. I think it came out of the extreme famine post Khmer Rouge years - people were eating anything they could get a hold of, including spiders. If you are thinking of Ratanikiri and Mondulkiri, the roads may still be bloody awful so be warned!! The dry season is from November to April so perhaps the best time to travel. After that, the monsoon can make the roads significantly less traversible. If you want to see the Irawaddy Dolphins (endemic to the Mekong area that straddles the Laos/Cambodian border), you will need to head right to the border of . Boat trips will take you into no-man's land to see them. To be honest, you can't see a huge amount, but when you do, it is pretty cool and it is a very unique experience seeing this endangered species.

Links

• Cambodia - Wikitravel